Saint-Irénée: Where Seduction Defies the Imagination

Saint-Irénée, Charlevoix Québec. Three years ago, I did not even know it existed and now this beautiful village is an intimate part of my life. It was seduction in its purest form where nature and a sense of well being are bound into a timeless complicity. Situated on the north shore of the St. Lawrence River about an hour east of Québec City, along Route 362, this hidden gem is nestled between the towns of Baie-Saint-Paul and La Malbaie. I knew Charlevoix, or at least I thought I did. I had gone several times with my family at the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu, taking Route 138. To say that the panoramic scenery unfolding along this coastline is breathtaking seems like a trite cliché. There really is no right word to describe the Charlevoix coastline and the emotions it conjures. Not from a mere mortal's point of view anyway. All I can say is that there is a special and unique character to this region that enthralls you into believing that there is definitely a little piece of heaven on earth. It is for these reasons that each year, like migratory birds and marine wildlife, vacationers return to relive the experience that is Charlevoix. Life is good here.

Domaine Forget Gate House

I had never taken the scenic river route until the day we were looking for land to build our ecohouse. We found our dream lot in Les Domaines du Ruisseau-Jureux in Saint-Irénée, on the banks of the river itself where we are now planning our active retirement. This is where we will welcome our children, grandchildren, relatives and friends around a rustic table with good wine and hearty meals from the terroir. As a writer, blogger, painter, musician and a green thumb, I had a long list of precise criteria for my new place of residence. It was the same for my husband whose list was more ambitious than mine. When you live in an area where there is an internationally reknown music and dance centre, a natural heritage site recognized by UNESCO, more art galleries than banks, where one resident in six is a member of the horticulture club, and painters, writers and poets come to dip their brush or their quill in all this inspiration, there is no mistake. This is total nirvana. It would be difficult to find something that surpasses all these attractions, but there is an even more valuable asset: they are the inhabitants themselves. These are a genuine and warm people who are proud of their natural and cultural heritage. The welcome they gave us was heartwarming. They are the best ambassadors of the region for their friendliness, the desire to serve coupled with a disarming sincerity.

Le jardin français

People who live here have a rare opportunity. The St. Lawrence River dominates with its polymorphic blues that fade into the sky and on the other side, the mountains with the same blue infinity seem to unfold into the green valleys covered with wild flowers.  Every season, tourists line up to live a unique experience where time seems to stop. Living in a resort area has its benefits. What people are looking for, we live it here and we are protecting it dearly. From the first glympse of dawn until the last lights dot the coastline, Saint-Irénée opens its arms wide open in its tourist houses, restaurants and the beach. At night, the most beautiful music in the world drifts from Le Domaine Forget, where the maestro's baton weaves its musical magic whether classical or contemporary. Blessed are those who like the French philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau, amble in solitude in the French garden where sculptures arise from large beds to remind us that the surreal is not so far from reality itself. That art here in this small village is life-size because living in Saint-Irénée, is like living in a painting.

Ginette Snack Bar

Saint-Irénée is the ideal destination for romantic getaways and family holidays. The young and old are lined up at Ginette's snack bar par excellence to satisfy their sweet tooth. Tourists mingle as they wait for their orders. Everything smells good here. Visitors flock to the beach to go horseback riding, watch beluga whales or stare in amazement at the freighters plying silently before them on the silent blue waters. Provisions and sweet treats are available

Père d'Antoine Grocery Store

at le Père d'Antoine convenience store with its miniature ships handcrafted by a pasionate mariner. For a beer from local microbreweries, the Flacatoune offers a varied surf and turf grille. The Bistro Saint-Laurent is one of the most intimate restaurants where the chef comes to greet you at your table and recites the menu of the day.


Le Rustique Guest Hotel

Tourist houses, bed and breakfasts and motels offer affordable and comfortable accommodation.We had the pleasure of staying at the Le Rustique a few times where Diane welcomed us like we were family. The rooms are beautiful, the menu surprisingly world class, but it is the genuine complicity of the guests that adds to the charm of this place. In the morning you hear the blacksmith next door, in his boutique workshop. The quaint white church overlooking the point on the main, used to appear in a famous Québec téléséries Le temps d'une paix. It stands modestly over Saint-Irénée like a lighthouse gently guiding you home. It feels good here. Even daylight seems different which explains the brilliant colours used by artists bringing to life a formidable landscape. 

Saint-Irénée's church

I have visited faraway countries where I marveled to see people stop everything in their daily routine to watch a sunset disappear into the waves of a turquoise ocean or an exotic mountain scape. As you experience this moment, you realize that this community understands the depth of its meaning. It is a state of grace and this is very rare. I envied them and thought that it was unique to their exotic locale. I was mistaken. At Saint-Irénée, it is a phenomenon that is repeated daily. It is not surprising to see hundreds of cars parked on the side of the road along the village. Occupants leave their cars in droves to walk on the beach at low tide. It is a well-established ritual. They stroll towards the blue infinity, where sea and sky merge. Not far, riders down the beach ride their horses with a delectable nonchalance. Children play, molding their imaginary worlds in the soft sand. Others spot beluga whales, hunt for sea glass and fish off the pier for smelt. Older couples sink into beach chairs in sweet idleness, both feet cradled in the sand, breathing deeply the sea air. This is Saint-Irénée and there is nothing like it.

So the next time you make the trip between the Baie-Saint-Paul and La Malbaie, take the 362 and discover a place that not only will pull at your heartstrings, but will seduce your imagination. Saint-Irénée, the most beautiful village in Québec and part of our heritage. Come and experience it yourself. 

The Charlevoix coast line as seen from our place.